Monday, October 5, 2009

RARE vintage mens collection: The Beginning

We are more use to writing about the flou side of fashion but are very excited to be writing about the tailleur side with this incredible avant garde collection of men's fashion from 1980 to 1985. We have the three masters of Japanese fashion: the great Mitsuhiro Matusda, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake. We also have the three masters of Italian fashion: Dolce e Gabbana (these are pieces from their very first men's collection), Giorgio Armani and Prada. There are also pants by Thierry Mugler and Katharine Hamnett.

All of the pieces are now on our blog as well as for sale in our store:

RARE vintage
24 West 57th Street
(between 5th and 6th Avenues in The New York Gallery Building. 5th floor)



Circa 1984 Matsuda Nicole Jacket with stitched braid in curved fleur de lis motif layered over an oatmeal tweed.
$450.00


Matsuda Tweed Jacket

Matsuda tweed jacket in shades of black, green and ochre with brown suede piping. The interior details of the jacket are very thoughtful and beautiful. This is a great example of how Matsuda took classic elements of traditional English men's fashion design and made it avant garde.

Size Medium.
$450.00

Yohji Yamamoto: The Jackets

Early 1980s Yohji Yamamoto surplus army green light weight wool jacket. Cut short and boxy. A cross between a Mao jacket and couture - and how many things can you say that about!

Size 50.
$300.00

Early 1980s Yohji Yamamoto black wool jacket. Almost like a pea coat with unique oval shaped leather buttons and military like detail on one shoulder.


Size 50.
$350.00

The Shirts

The shirts are great statement pieces. They also perfectly reflect each designers sensibilities: Issey Miyake's artistry, Gianfranco Ferre who defined Italian luxury fashion and Mitsuhiro Matsuda's slightly avant garde but classic designs.

Please note that the shirts are from the 1980s and so are of a boxy, slightly oversized cut.

Matsuda 50s Style Shirt

Early 1980s Matsuda 50s-style spun rayon shirt with fabric covered buttons.




$250.00
Size Medium.

Issey Miyake 'Warhol-esque' Print Shirt

Issey Miyake was the first fashion designer to be featured on the cover of Artforum magazine. We are pleased to be able to offer an early 1980s cream and brown rayon Issey Miyake abstract flower print shirt. The print reminds us of a Warhol silk screen painting.

$250.00
Size Medium.

Gianfranco Ferre 'La Saison du Nord' Shirt

Grey Gianfranco Ferre polyester and cotton shirt with Crotti Lanificio di Lessona lambswool detail on shoulders. Embroidered across the back is:

LA SAISON DV NORD
POVR LA CHASSE, DIVERTISSEMENT,
DANS LA PIECE DE LA SAISON DE L’AVTOMNE

with handpainted stenciling on the wool. Here is a very brief bit of history on the Lanificio di Lessona: The company has existed since 1700 and production is based on producing the most luxurious wool. In 1960 Ottavio Crotti began producing ‘noble’ fabric’s for mens clothing.

$250.00
Size 41

The Pants: Katharine Hamnett and Thierry Mugler

Despite what Lady Gaga might think, pants are still in and I don't think for men that they have ever been out - not yet anyway! We do have a few favorites from this collection and these Katharine Hamnett pants in black wool are one of our favorite pieces because they are just very cool. They have multiple silver zippers and taper down to a very narrow leg. We can sort of see a Johnny Depp type wearing them with a leather cuff, bits of this and that hanging here and there and some worn, beat up boots. Our idea of personal perfection!



Mid 1980s Katharine Hamnett black wool 'zipper' pants. Size 32.
$250.00


Thierry Mugler of the motorcycle bustier, immaculate, sexy yet powerful woman fashion design obviously thought about men as well. If the devil is in the details, these are some very devilish pants. The slick but subtle details include asymmetric belt loops and the great star button.


Mid 1980s Thierry Mugler balck wool pants with star button detail. Size
$250.00

Early 1980s Matsuda 'pajama' Suit

We like to think of this suit this way: it is Thursday night and you have to go out. You're a little tired and not feeling very ambitious. You are also feeling a little Hugh Hefner. A little Julian Schnabel. A little like wearing your favorite Japanese designer from the 1980s, Matsuda. Well, this is really a no brainer! You wear your soft but tailored Matsuda pajama suit! This was a favorite of the original owner. If he can do it, so can you!


Early 1980s Matsuda Nicole pajama suit. Size Medium.
$750.00

Early 1980s Gianni Versace

Gianni Versace has dressed some of the most famous names of the twentieth century: Elton John, Madonna, and Princess Diana among them. Maybe it was that his revolution of sultry glamor was contagious and we all wanted to not only feel good but look good too - and there is nothing wrong with that!

RARE vintage is thrilled to have three early examples of Gianni Versace's menswear which debuted in 1979. The first is a boxy cut vest in a slightly shiny grey and black with concealed buttons.
No size.
$100.00

Disheveled linen became a Versace trademark as well as voluminous cuts for men that managed to be revealing at the same time. Our linen pants are loosely cut but almost sheer. They were also a favorite of our collector and there is some wear and fading to these. That said, they still are very wearable and certainly very collectible.

Linen Pants. Size 50.
$200.00

I had been conservatively buying vintage for my husband as I happened to come across something unique that I liked as I bought women's vintage. Alexander Shields velvet jackets with colorful silk linings are a particular favorite. As a mother of twins, a boy and a girl, I am also always thinking about a future collection for them and had already packed away my husbands early 80s narrow Memphis ties for our son. Then there are the lycra cow-printed leggings from Susanne Bartsch's 8th Street store - but that is another story he may prefer not told! The very first piece that I heard about from this collection was this early 1980s Versace green studded leather Versace jacket. Well say no more sister, that was all I needed to know! It is in extraordinary condition and epitomizes not only the craft of Gianni Versace but the glamours statement pieces that he is so well known for.



Gianni Versace studded green leather jacket with doloman sleeves and emerald green silk lining. No size.
$1500.00

The Master: Yohji Yamamoto

This is our absolute favorite ensemble from the collection: an early 1980s Yohji Yamamoto jodphur suit (because, hey, you never know when you might get a sudden urge to go riding! In style of course) with original cut-out detail vest in black wool. The pants are cut similar to a jodphur, wider through the thigh tapering down to a narrow leg with an elastic near the cuff.






Early 1980s Yohji Yamamoto jodphur pants with original matching vest.
Size Medium.
$750.00

Giorgio Armani: American Gigolo Collection

Richard Gere is hanging upside down doing sit ups in his boxers before laying out his clothes from his vast wardrobe. The camera lingers on his walk. Probably the best walk since the camera lingered on Marilyn Monroe in Niagra. Everyone in 1980 either wanted to be Richard Gere or be with Richard Gere. Everything was perfect, the man, the clothes, the Mercedes 450 SL convertible.

Girogio Armani was absolutely a large part of Julian Kay's immense sexuality. The clothes are soft but body conscious at the same time.
Circa 1981 sand colored linen vest. No size.
$100.00



Circa 1981 Giorgio Armani softly tailored power-suit.
Inspired by the 1930s films of Clark Gable. Size 44 regular.
$550.00

Dolce e Gabbana The First Collection

Dolce e Gabbana debuted their first men's collection in 1991. Hello! That is the same year Madonna famously wore Dolce e Gabbana to the Cannes Film Festival. For their first mens collection they were working a slightly Tyrolean Sound of Music look. Thus these chestnut colored high waisted pants which taper down to a narrow leg.





1991 Fall/Winter Collection high waisted Dolce e Gabbana pants. Size 50.
$250.00

Prada

From one of the earliest Prada techno fabric suit collections is this navy suit. So, if you actually have shoulders and can not fit into any of her more recent girly-boy cuts, this will be perfect for you!


Size 54.
$550.00
Please note, there is some slight fading near the lapel.




Prada grey wool/spandex pants with electric blue stripe.
Size 50.
$150.00

Matsuda: The Pants

We love these Matsuda military-style pants with a full length zipper on the sides. They can be worn closed for a narrower look or for a baggy look can be unzipped. Available in sand and black. The pants have woven leather buttons and have an adjustable waist band and the cuff can be tightened.

Early 1980s Matsuda pants with full length zipper. Size Medium.
$350.00



Early 1980s Matsuda pants with full length zipper. Size Medium.
$350.00

The look in the 80s was definitely for a fuller, bigger everything: the shoulders! The boxy shirts meant to be worn untucked! The pants with pleats! These Matsuda brown wool pants with a full front pleat have a bit of a rockabilly feel. So go ahead and do your best 'cool cat strut'!

Early 1980s brown wool Matusda pants. Size Large.
Interior adjustable elastic waistband.
$200.00

Friday, October 2, 2009

WWD writes about our men's collection:


Thursday, October 1, 2009

Yo Dudes! Recesson Proof Your Closet

Read about our upcoming sale of collectible avant garde men's pieces from the 1980s at Men.Style.Com.

Just a note, sizes vary and will be posted next week with the photos.


For more information about this item please email info@rarevintageinc.com or call (212) 581 7273

Friday, September 25, 2009

RARE vintage's Debut Collection of Men's Vintage!

COMING OCTOBER 5TH AT 11AM!